Standard Knife Sharpening

I examine every knife that I sharpen to check for damage and to assess the blade profile and geometry. Once I have fixed any damage, I will thin the blade down by creating a back bevel behind the cutting edge. This is often done with variable speed belts or a water-cooled wheel. Finally, I expertly sharpen the edge bevel and hone it to razor sharpness. If you are getting a hand sharpened edge, then the edge bevel will be sharpened and honed on Japanese waterstones. On a carbon steel knife, I will also put a light coat of camellia oil on the blade to prevent rust.

Japanese Knife Sharpening

I start by examining the blade to check for damage as well as observe the blade’s profile and geometry. After fixing any problems, I begin by sharpening the shinogi line. After I have finished sharpening the shinogi line, I then sharpen the edge. If it is a single bevel knife, I also do uraoshi sharpening. I then polish the blade road to the desired look. Finally, I finish by polishing the cutting edge on fine Japanese waterstones. If it is a carbon steel knife, I will also put a light coat of camellia oil on the blade to prevent rust.

Knife Blade Repair

If your knife blade has any damage to it (such as nicks, chips, bends, broken tips, etc.), I will repair it when I sharpen it. When a large amount of steel must be removed, then I will use variable speed belts or a water-cooled wheel followed by Japanese waterstones.


Why thin a knife down?

  • Thinner knives just cut better.
  • Each time your knife is sharpened, a small amount of steel is removed from the edge of your knife. This moves your edge back into thicker steel. By thinning your knife down a little bit each time I sharpen it, I maintain the proper blade geometry for your knife.
  • All good sharpeners thin knife blades. Without proper thinning, the knife won’t cut well.

Straight Razor Honing and Repair

I personally shave with a straight razor, and I would love to sharpen yours. I will hand hone it on Japanese waterstones, and then strop it until it is shave ready. I do not tape the spine of the razor. If it is a carbon steel razor, I will also put a light coat of camellia oil on the blade to prevent rust. I also have a free video showing you how to strop your razor so you can properly maintain the edge between honings.

Scissors and Shears

I sharpen household scissors, sewing shears, pinking shears, surgical scissors, industrial shears, manicure scissors, knife edge shears, salon shears, barber shears, grooming shears, and thinning shears.


Please note the following:

  • Pocket knives are charged per blade.
  • Extra charges may be made for items that need repair. I do not repair handles. If extra charges are necessary, I will advise you before proceeding.
  • Blades should be clean when they arrive for sharpening.
  • I sharpen each individual serration on a serrated knife. I will re-serrate knives if necessary.
  • I do not sharpen double edged knives.
  • If I am unable to sharpen your item, then I will return it to you with an explanation.
  • With the exception of scissors, the above prices are per blade unless otherwise noted.

If you have questions, please contact me.

Sharpening from A to Z...

  1. Examine the knife
    • Check the blade for straightness
    • Check the blade profile
    • Check the blade geometry
    • Assess the blade for damage
  2. Correct any damage or blade profile issues such as
    • A reverse bow
    • A broken tip
    • Any chips
    • A protruding bolster on western chef knives
    • Worn down serrations
  3. Correct or maintain proper blade geometry
    • Adjust or create the back bevel on a western knife
    • Sharpen the shinogi line on a Japanese knife
  4. Sharpen the primary edge
    • Create or resharpen the primary edge on Japanese waterstones or power sharpen using special wheels.
    • Perform uraoshi sharpening on a single bevel Japanese knife
    • Hand hone or power sharpen the edge to razor sharpness using fine Japanese waterstones